OLD SO KOOL.......



New to The Rudai show space for AW2023 is HOLOMARKET TOKYO.
Riki Yoshida, a hand-printing artisan, has been developing fabrics for domestic and international major brands for 15 years. He graduated from the University of Osaka with a Fashion Design degree. Straight after graduation, he started working for a textile company in Kyoto where he created innovative textiles for brands like Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, and Chanel. During that time, he started making his own clothes as a hobby. His garments started to gain attention, so he decided to put more effort into creating his own clothing line.
Japanese fashion is known on the western side of the world for its unique shapes and innovative use of technology; but since starting his career, Riki has always been drawn to textiles and printing patterns on the cloth via the craft of “YUZEN”.
Yuzen is a technique for printing patterns on cloth using a mold. It is a technique that has been handed down since ancient times in Kyoto, Japan and has evolved in its own unique way. The entire dyeing process, a traditional industry in Kyoto, is done by hand-printing, which allows for a high degree of freedom of expression. HOLOMARKET have been producing a wide variety of original fabrics that cannot be expressed by ordinary screen printing, utilizing techniques that can only be done by true craftsmen in the dyeing factory.
HOLOMARKET’S original fabrics are used by a wide range of clients from foreign maisons to the interior industry. While using traditional techniques, HOLOMARKET are constantly evolving these techniques to create highly designed products.
"I didn't want to go through the path of entering a fashion brand and being asked to draw a pattern or go to the same path all fashion students follow after finishing school, I wanted to be more creative"
HOLOMARKET’S collections are always designed with a particular theme in mind. When it comes to figuring out the theme for the collection, Riki bases it or his experiences during a certain period in his life.
FOR AW2023 The theme is based on Japanese “Craftsmen in America”. The collection will be introduced in Paris at man show between 20th – 22nd Jan then will be housed in THE RUDAI show space for the selling season.
HOLOMARKET…….. ONE TO WATCH………
Have you ever seen a pair of sneakers made with real fish skin? KangaROOS and Bisso did it.....
After having gone to the Pyrenees mountains to fish the rainbow trout in its natural environment, Bisso simply stayed in Toulouse (4th largest city in France) in an urban environment, to practice "Street Fishing".
Street Fishing is a playful sport concept in which one uses a rod and lures to attack the waters of the city and the fish that they shelter.
In the waters of the concrete jungle often hides a rich and varied fauna. It’s in this urban setting surrounded by grey concrete buildings or made of orange bricks typical of the South of France, that Bisso found inspiration.
On the banks of the Canal du Midi, with his bike, his tote bag, his fishing rod and a few lures, he moves quickly in search of carnivores such as trout, perch or pike.
It’s this whole universe made of concrete and nature that inspired Bisso in the use of shades of grey characteristic of the city and the trout. The whole is raised by touches of pink/orange present on the fish and green recalling the colors of water.
BISSO:
"Thanks again to Kangaroos who gave me the opportunity to design my second Kangaroos sneaker without any constraints. This only confirms the state of mind of this brand, which is close to all those who are passionate about high quality products."
Materials used: Perforated suede / Suede / Real fish skin
As THE RUDAI is getting more and more conscious and looking to partner with more earth friendly organisations we have been introduced to FEMER - Fish Skin, being pioneered by Marielle Philip.....
Lost in the middle of oyster farming territory, on the harbour of La Teste-de-Buch and off the Arcachon Bay, Marielle Philip is tanning fish skins to turn them into leather. Her workshop is set up inside one of those little wooden cabins right by the water-a few feet away from the food stalls where tourists regularly show up to gorge themselves on oyster platters.
Inside Femer, her small leather-working shop, each object fits the nautical theme: yellow raincoats hanging on a rack, an old machine that fillets fish, a few water colors of boats, and her grandfather's fishing nets. In a corner, two big freezers stock the different fish, whose skins will soon become leather: bass, salmon, soles, trout, turbots, burbots, sturgeons, catfish, rays, mullets... The list is long-if it swims, it ends up on Marielle's workstation.
The art of fashioning leather out of fish skin wasn't invented yesterday. The artisanal craft has been practiced across the ages and across the globe. Marielle grew up at sea, accompanying her grandfather on fishing trips and helping with morning auctions. Marielle start their own leather-working shop, naming it Femer. Together with her mother, they developed an eco-responsible method that allows them to fabricate fish leather through a circular economy. For nearly two years, Marielle put on her chemist hat and concocted various vegetable tannin recipes, eventually arriving at a process that is 100-percent natural, with zero waste.
Tannin is the substance that is added in order to transform the skin into leather, rendering it supple and insoluble, and preventing it from rotting. Currently, industry professionals use mineral salts as tannin, such as chromium salts-chemical products that mix easily with other substances, and thus cut production times way down. Marielle opted for a more natural alternative, out of environmental concerns: "I use local invasive plants, such as crushed mimosa root bark, which is found all over the Aquitaine region," she explains. "I am always working on new vegetable tannin formulas. Choosing this process means that we are looking to remain as natural as possible, and obtain quality leather," confesses Marielle, careful not to reveal too much of her secret recipes.
Why are we highlighting this to you???? kangaROOS will be utilising this artizanial technique on there upcoming colab with BISSO......
More info to follow......
LONG TIME FRIENDS & "CO-CONSPIRITORS" SIMON BARKER (original Bromley Contingent) and HIROSHI FUJIWARA both feature in the recent NUMERO EXTRA publication.
The feature was taken in Prague where Simon is based and discusses the long time friendship of these 2 influential and very down to earth figures.
There will be a very special capsule that has had the STAIN SHADE treatment from AKA SIX x FRAGMENT that will be exclusive to www.thebusinessfashion.com.
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